If you like tuna, El Ancla in El Médano is probably worth putting on your list. This place isn’t trying to dress up its fish with endless ingredients or clever fusion tricks. The tuna is the main event, and the kitchen seems perfectly happy to let it do the talking.
The restaurant has built its menu around tuna, serving it in a variety of ways, from a rich tuna salad topped with generous slices of bright red raw fish to a rather impressive tuna milanesa.
That milanesa is one of the dishes that really stands out. Calling a fish dish a milanesa might sound a little ambitious, but they pull it off. The coating has a proper crunch, while the tuna inside stays juicy. Add fresh tartar sauce and lightly smoked grilled lettuce, and it all comes together rather nicely.
It’s all about the fish
The kitchen makes good use of different cuts, rather than sticking to the familiar favourites.
The ventresca arrives in delicate slices, with the marbling and rich colour making it clear just how much fat is running through the cut. It’s finished with a fine mince, caviar, a little citrus and olive oil.
The grilled morrillo is another highlight, served over a rich pumpkin purée. Then there’s the grilled chuleta, which is presented raw before cooking, showing off the bone and the white marbling. Served with greens and tomatoes, it’s another reminder that there’s plenty more to tuna than the cuts most of us usually order.
The idea is simple enough: make the most of the whole fish, and give each cut the attention it deserves.
Experience behind the menu
Much of the thinking behind El Ancla comes from Juan Carlos Clemente, an experienced gastronomic adviser known for his detailed approach to food. In the kitchen, chef Jesús Marrero handles the various preparations, making the most of the different textures and qualities of the tuna.
The restaurant also runs live demonstrations led by Clemente, showing guests how the fish is handled and prepared. These events have proved popular, with places reportedly selling out within hours.
Afterwards, guests get to try the dishes they’ve just watched being prepared. It’s a good way to understand the fish a little better, rather than simply being told how wonderful it is.
El Ancla’s approach is refreshingly focused. Good tuna, different cuts, careful cooking and accompaniments that know when to stay out of the way.
Whether you sit inside or take a table on the seaside terrace, there’s plenty here to enjoy. And if Tenerife’s better-known restaurant guides are looking for somewhere that deserves a closer look, El Ancla makes a pretty convincing case.