Santa Cruz de Tenerife has just been named Spanish Capital of Gastronomy 2027, taking over from Jerez de la Frontera.
It’s a pretty good excuse to talk about food.
The capital already has a growing reputation for its restaurants, markets and local produce, so I thought I’d pick out six places that show some of the variety on offer.
As with any list like this, these are some of the ones I like. There are plenty of others worth talking about, and 2027 should give us plenty of opportunities to do exactly that.
Taberna Ramón
You’ll find Taberna Ramón at Rambla de Santa Cruz 56, opposite the old bullring.
It opened back in 1992 and is still attracting queues, so booking ahead is a sensible idea.
The restaurant is run by Ramón León Chinea, originally from Vallehermoso in La Gomera, together with his son Jonay.
The speciality is traditional, hearty food, with the ropa vieja being one of the dishes worth trying.
Sometimes you don’t need to reinvent the wheel. You just need to cook the old recipes properly.
Restaurante El Líbano
El Líbano has been part of Santa Cruz’s restaurant scene since 1979, when Ali Mahmoud Mohsen opened the restaurant on Calle Santiago Cuadrado 36.
Nearly five decades later, it remains a good example of how international food has become part of the city’s identity.
The restaurant serves Lebanese cuisine adapted over the years to local tastes.
One dish worth ordering is the kipe naye, made with raw meat, wheat and Lebanese spices, traditionally served with onion and radish.
San Sebastián 57
At San Sebastián 57, chef Alberto González Margallo brings together his Cantabrian roots with his adopted home of the Canary Islands.
The restaurant is on the avenue that gives it its name, close to the Nuestra Señora de África market, better known as La Recova.
The menu combines local ingredients with a personal style, including dishes such as cherne caught in Canary Islands waters and prepared a la bilbaína.
It’s a good example of how Tenerife’s food scene doesn’t have to choose between traditional Canarian cooking and influences from elsewhere.
El Aguarde
El Aguarde, at Calle Costa y Grijalba 21, is one of those restaurants where ordering a load of different dishes to share makes sense.
Chef and owner Francisco Javier González-Haba focuses on seasonal cooking and quality ingredients, while also being happy to guide diners through the menu.
The Spanish omelette is particularly popular.
It’s served individually and apparently has a secret that the chef isn’t giving away.
Fair enough. Some things are better kept quiet.
Nielsen
For something a little different, there’s Nielsen, tucked away at Callejón del Combate 9.
Chef Danny Nielsen, originally from Denmark and trained in some of Europe’s better-known restaurants, combines Nordic influences with fresh, seasonal local ingredients.
The restaurant has a relaxed feel, with a varied menu built around quality produce.
One dish to look out for is the beef Wellington, which needs to be booked in advance and is now also available using game meat.
Not exactly your average Tuesday night dinner.
Etéreo
Over in El Toscal, you’ll find Etéreo at Calle San Antonio 63.
Run by Pedro Nel Restrepo and Viviana Sarriá, the restaurant combines Colombian flavours with local Canarian produce.
The result is a menu that reflects both where they came from and where they now live.
One of the main attractions is the selection of aged meats, with different cuts and origins displayed in the restaurant’s maturation chambers.
It’s another example of the increasingly international character of Santa Cruz’s food scene.
A city with plenty to eat
The choice of Santa Cruz de Tenerife as Spanish Capital of Gastronomy 2027 isn’t just about having a few good restaurants.
The city’s successful bid, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, cruce de sabores, was built around local produce, culinary talent and the mixture of cultures that has shaped the capital.
And these six restaurants are a decent reminder that Santa Cruz’s food scene is already doing quite a lot before the official celebrations even begin.
2027 should be interesting.
And probably quite good for the waistline too.